Friday, October 8, 2004

Food for Thought

?Tis the season for lamb


By GREGORY FOLEY

Gregory Foley

Every fall, thousands of sheep make their way through the Wood River Valley, from summer pastures north of Ketchum to winter grazing areas in points south.

The tradition is celebrated in many ways, often through gatherings for hearty feasts of roasted lamb or lamb stew.

Autumn is a perfect time to enjoy fresh lamb. Much of the lamb in the marketplace comes from animals that are slaughtered between five and six months of age, after they have grown sufficiently to render a variety of sizable?but still tender?cuts of meat. Lambs born in the spring often come of age in the fall, producing light-red meat that is tender and full of flavor.

Lamb?which generally refers to the meat of sheep less than one year old?is considered a delicacy in many parts of the globe.

Leg of lamb and rack of lamb are popular choices for celebratory meals in the United States and Europe. In many nations, lamb is served as a traditional dish at Easter. It is a food staple of many cultures, including those of Turkey, Greece, New Zealand and several countries of the Middle East. Morocco is famous for its zesty preparations of lamb.

Lamb is popular largely because of its distinct flavor but is also recognized for its great versatility. It can be served grilled, roasted, braised, sautéed or stuffed, in a Western-style stew or in an Eastern-style curry. And, it marries well with a seemingly endless list of seasonings, including basil, cinnamon, cumin, garlic, lemon, mint, rosemary, saffron, sage and shallot.

The best cuts require little preparation. A rack of lamb can be delicious when roasted with small doses of salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic.

Yet, lamb also shines in more complex dishes with numerous ingredients. The Greeks might serve it with zucchini, herbs, garlic, pine nuts and tomatoes, or with a with a minted yogurt sauce. A French cassoulet might mix lamb with beans, bay leaf, thyme, onion, pork and sausage.

In modern times, food lovers have increasingly discovered that lamb also marries extremely well with red wine.

Most lamb dishes are certainly hearty enough to complement a rich Bordeaux, Châteauneuf du Pape or California cabernet sauvignon. Many robust Italian wines, such as a Brunello di Montalcino, also pair well with robust lamb dishes.

Spicy lamb dishes, such as moussaka or curries, would work best with a spicy zinfandel or syrah. With a more-delicate lamb stew with spring vegetables, a rich red Burgundy might be the perfect choice.

As the temperatures start to drop in the fall, I look forward to preparing lamb in a rich, filling pasta dish that warms the insides.

The following recipe, Farfalle with Lamb Ragu, is a simple seasonal favorite. I like it with a glass of Chianti.



Farfalle with Lamb Ragu

1 vegetable bullion cube
1 onion, minced
1 celery stalk, minced
1 carrot, minced
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. boneless lamb (shoulder, leg or loin), trimmed, cut into small cubes
1 tsp. tomato paste
½ cup red wine
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
½ cup frozen peas
1 lb. farfalle pasta
Salt

Dissolve the bullion cube in one cup of hot water.

Sauté onion, celery and carrot in olive oil for approximately two minutes.

Stir in the lamb and brown. Deglaze the pan with the red wine.

Stir in the tomato paste, bullion and the bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a slow boil and then simmer on low heat for half an hour. When nearly done, add salt and thyme to taste.

Cook the pasta in 5 quarts of salted water, adding peas to cook them.

After draining the pasta, mix it with the ragu and serve immediately.



Gregory Foley is a staff writer for the Idaho Mountain Express. He is a former restaurant sous-chef and a former France-based travel guide.




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