Easter, like other widely recognized religious holidays, has found its way into our culture at large. For diverse people across the nation, Easter Sunday is reserved for festive family feasts, a celebration of the arrival of spring, if not the resurrection of Christ.
But, some would argue, Easter, like Christmas, has been compromised, that the forces of commercialism have turned it into a celebration of trinkets, toys and brightly packaged treats. Out is the spirit-filled Sunday dinner. In are egg hunts and the relentless pursuit of foil-wrapped chocolate bunnies.
It is hard to deny that Easter has lost some of its soul, in part to the savvy marketing of brand-name sweets. In every supermarket, they run the gamut, from sugar-coated marshmallow chicks to jelly eggs in every color of the rainbow. And, of course, the chocolate bunnies, large and small.
So, if one is pulling out all the stops for an Easter feast, and would like to top it all off with something delectably sweet, what might quell the calls at the table for sugary bunnies, beans and baby chickens?
The alternatives are many, but one option might be unsurpassed in its ability to remind your family that the savory bounty of summer is right around the corner: berries.
In most climates in North America, berries start to come into season in late spring or early summer. However, it is not entirely necessary to wait until the snow is gone to enjoy fresh blueberries, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. They are shipped regularly from warmer climes to markets and restaurants across the globe, including in Idaho.
Berries are excellent sources of vitamin C and fiber, and are low in calories and fat, unlike those goodies from the Easter basket. They are also good sources of antioxidants, which may reduce cancer risks.
This berry concoction is the perfect counter to the mud-season blues. Look for berries that are plump, shiny and firm.
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Gratin de Fruits
(Serves 6)
6 cups chilled berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries), larger fruits cut up
1 recipe sabayon sauce
Mint leaves for garnish
Sabayon sauce:
2/3 cup sugar
6 egg yolks
1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla or 1/2 vanilla bean
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon raspberry liqueur (Chambord)
Whisk together the sugar and egg yolks in a heavy saucepan. Combine the milk and vanilla (if using a bean) and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Very slowly, a little at a time, whisk the milk into the eggs. Heat over low heat, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens (about 155 or 160 degrees, until it coats a spoon), then remove immediately.
Pour into a cool bowl and place over ice, whisking a minute to cool. Add the vanilla (if using extract) and liqueur, then chill in refrigerator for 3 hours, until cold.
At serving: Arrange the berries in six ovenproof gratin or brulée dishes. Preheat the broiler, spoon the sauce over the berries, and place the dishes about 5 inches under the broiler. Broil briefly, 1-2 minutes, until lightly brown. Garnish with the mint and serve immediately.
Gregory Foley
