In many parts of the world people gather at bistros, cafés and restaurants to chat, read the news and exchange banter. They might come alone but in due time they're joined by others, there is a flow of conversation, pushing together of tables. In essence they are the heart of the establishment. They are what people see and want to join or imitate. Customers can make or break a business, and not just lack or surfeit of them.
In Ketchum, it has always been like this. But café life is changing. Only recently, there were Java types and Bagel Place regulars, those who were loyal to the Coffee Grinder and those who frequented Strega on a daily basis. You knew, as did visitors, where you wanted to go, and not just because their coffee was the best but because you were attracted to the clientele.
In the last year, several places have closed or moved: The Bagel Place and Mama Inez moved south, Strega stopped doing lunches, Daily Automatic closed, Williams' deli and eating area are gone, Esta's left, and Eduardo's and Ketchum Kantina are both shuttered. Wrapcity moved into its new space where Esta's used to be, which takes it out of the core, but at least it still thankfully exists.
Let's take a gander, shall we, at the ways in which the changes in Ketchum (though Hailey's changes are just as vital) are affecting the working person, looking for lunch, the visitor hungry while shopping or the second home owner returning. Firstly, according to the Idaho Department of Transportation, approximately 17,000 commuters drive on a daily basis from the south to the north valley. It's hard to find a good lunch let alone one where you might see your cronies and hang out. Our favorite spots are simply not there. Once, we mourned Buffalo Café. Now, most people don't remember it. Once, Names & Numbers actually memorialized defunct establishments on the back page. No longer. There are just too many that come and go anymore. Can we even manage to remain loyal, or is the disappointment of not finding your favorite haunt just too painful.
But bistro living still has its charm. The Sun Valley Wine Company enjoys a steady stream of customers for their lunches, as does the Galleria café. Subshack is a great choice. Despo's retains its base, though some still miss the porch in the summer. Rico's has an outdoor patio—likewise, the Rustic Moose, Perry's, Buffalo Bites, Java, KB's, Christina's, Lefty's and Roosevelt. But in the winter, choices are few and far between. We don't walk as far for lunch and find it harder to get the quick fixes one can get from a deli atmosphere.
In Europe, bistro living is sacred, which is why the ambience and creative culinary arts of owner Alain Gillot at Bistro 44 is so unique to the valley. H-G's Reserve also has wonderful gourmet take away fare and a chilly area in which to sit. In the summer both these spots shine since there are ample areas outside to linger over a glass of wine, coffee or pastry. Bistro 44 is overloaded with charm especially since Gillot's close friend Lee McComas buffed out the interior design. Now a true French spot in form as well as function, it exudes ambience and warmth and, dare it be said, a certain je ne sais quoi.
Though not stuffy, while sipping wine there one might easily be sitting check to jowl with Warren Buffett. Customers are loyal and friendly, congratulating McComas on her redo of the space.
"It's where the elite met," she laughs. "Alain has been given so many wonderful things over the years, now we're using them in here."
Indeed, the walls are covered, randomly, with paintings such as one might find in a Provençal café where regulars pay their monthly tabs with artwork.
Eh bien. Find a spot where you like the food, the staff and the clientele, rest and relax. Otherwise, we maybe left with nowhere to find any food whatsoever.
Lee McComas and Alain Gillot in the newly redecorated Bistro 44. Express photo by Dana DuGan
