The pleasures of pesto
Food for Thought
By GREGORY FOLEY
With the onset of warmer weather,
many cooks start thinking about taking advantage of the bounty of fresh
herbs available in summer.
Basil, the green, leafy herb that
for centuries has been a key component of Italian cuisine, has a
seemingly endless list of applications in light, summer dishes.
Fresh basil marries perfectly with
platters of sliced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil. It is a key
component of Italian fettuccine Alfredo, a dish that can be served year
round.
One of my favorite summer
appetizer recipes calls for grilling jumbo shrimp wrapped with giant
basil leaves and prosciutto.
Fresh basil truly takes center
stage in classic Genovese pesto, a delectable paste that can be used in
a wide variety of lighter dishes.
Typically, a blend of fresh basil,
garlic, olive oil, pine nuts and salt, basil pesto is a simple food that
can be made in mere minutes.
Pesto is not only ideal as a light
complement to pastas, but can also be applied as a basic sauce for
pizzas, a spread for sandwiches or a marinade for grilled fish and
poultry. Increasingly, it is used as a dip or a flavor concentrate that
can be added like a demi-glace to soups or sauces.
Pesto is a derivation of the
Italian verb "pestare," which means to pound or to crush. Although the
word generally refers to simple basil pesto, it is also used in
reference to a growing variety of pastes made from diverse herbs,
greens, beans, nuts and vegetables.
The use of the word comes from the
traditional—and still the best—method for preparing pesto. The
relatively easy process involves pounding with a mortar and pestle a few
toasted pine nuts, some chopped garlic and generous amounts of fresh
basil. After a rough paste is formed, extra-virgin olive oil is whisked
in.
Most recipes call for salt and
freshly ground pepper. Many also include grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese.
For many cooks, it is preferable
to make pesto in a food processor or blender. The machine method is
certainly more efficient, particularly for producing large amounts of
pesto.
Still, many traditionalists hold
that the fast-spinning blades of the machines can over-process the soft
basil leaves.
While basil remains the most
popular base ingredient, cilantro, mint, olives, roasted red peppers and
sun-dried tomatoes are among the many other ingredients common to modern
pestos.
Best served fresh, basil pesto can
be refrigerated or frozen for future use.
Classic basil pesto
2 Tbsp. toasted pine nuts
3 large garlic cloves
2 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves, rinsed and dried
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp. salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
In a food processor, pulse the
pine nuts until ground. Add the garlic, basil and salt. With the blades
spinning, purée while drizzling in the olive oil.
When a consistent paste is formed,
add freshly ground pepper to taste.
Serve immediately or transfer to a
non-reactive bowl and store covered in the refrigerator for up to three
days.
Gregory Foley is a staff writer
for the Idaho Mountain Express. He is a former restaurant sous-chef and
a former France-based travel guide. His first novel, The Clarity of
Light, was released in March.