On the greener side
Get a head start
By DANA DUGAN
Express Staff Writer
Gardeners in climates such as ours
face more than our share of challenges. Our growing season is cursed
with brevity and the risk of surprise frosts--but we’re blessed by lots
of sun.
Most years, the last frost often
rears its discouraging head for the last time by late May. So, seed
planting outside must be delayed longer than in other climes.
But don’t despair. Many vegetables
and flowers can benefit from a wee push by being started indoors.
This concept should be easy but
many gardeners have given up in frustration and just support their local
nursery instead. However, it’s amazingly satisfying to work your own
garden from start to finish, and can also save you a small fortune.
What you’ll need: space to lay out
seed trays with lots of light, sterile soil, and an easy source of
moisture. The latter is the one that requires the most attention. You
want to keep the medium moist but not let it become wet or soggy.
Seedlings will grow to be stronger in a moist medium.
It is essential that the soil you
use in the containers be sterile. The size of the container will depend
on what type of plant you're growing. You want to give bigger root
growing plants a slightly bigger container, others may just need little
peat pots to start.
Be careful of a common fungus
called damping-off disease, which can wipe out hours of hard work in a
matter of days.
To avoid this make sure you use a
sterile soil or perhaps some other sterile medium such as vermiculite.
When buying soil it should be clearly indicated on the packaging as
sterile.
Fill containers about an inch from
the top and moisten well. Let the excess water drain out completely.
Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets, then with a
fingertip or pencil make spaces for several seeds in each container.
Bury the seeds approximately two times deeper than the size of the seed.
For the smallest seeds just cover them with a light sprinkling of dry
potting soil.
Make sure the seedlings receive as
much natural light as possible, otherwise they’ll become spindly, and
weak. Artificial light may have to be supplemented. Use bulbs that are
specifically made for growing plants and place them just a foot or so
above your seedlings. You'll want to keep these lights on at least 14
hours a day. Fluorescent tubes are ideal because they don’t over heat
and dry out the seedlings.
Now is a pretty good time to start
your seeds. If they outgrow the small pots, thin them and transplant the
largest to bigger pots. Normally you want to plant them outside just as
they become large enough to survive transplanting. This is generally
four to six weeks after sowing, when they have at least two sets of true
leaves.
Small pots and flats dry out
quickly, so check them often. If your seedlings are growing in a
windowsill, turn them often to encourage straight stems.
The first two leaves on the plant
are actually food storage cells. Soon, the first true leaves will
develop. At this point, many gardeners feed the seedlings a little food
in the form of a good balanced liquid organic fertilizer.
Harden the seedlings
gradually by moving the plants to a shady outdoor area at first, and
then indoors for the night if night temperatures are cold. Each day,
move them out into the sun for a few hours, increasing the time spent in
the sun each day. Keep them well watered.
Remember, the hallmarks of a
successful gardener are desire, patience and the wherewithal to try, try
again.
Dana DuGan is a staff writer for
the Idaho Mountain Express, a former member of the Fairfield County
(Conn.) Garden Club, a member of the New York Botanical Society and an
avid gardener.