Stanley offers snowmobiling
smorgasbord
Riders view Yellowstone as
first domino
"That’s why we can’t let
Yellowstone set a precedent. We’ve tried give-and-take, but what it
seems to come down to is we’re willing to give, and they’re willing to
take. There is a struggle for public land—keeping it accessible for all.
Obviously the battle’s going to go on as environmentalists want to close
more and more lands."
— DAN HAMMERBACK, Salmon
River Snowmobile Club president
By GREG STAHL
Express Staff Writer
With 170 miles of groomed trails
and thousands of acres of snow-covered mountainous terrain nearby,
Stanley is a snowmobiler’s paradise waiting to be discovered.
"Snowmobiling is the life blood of
this community in the winter," said Gary Cvecich, a 20-year resident of
Stanley, 60 miles north of Ketchum. "If it wasn’t for snowmobiling, we
wouldn’t have any business around here in the winter. We’ve worked
really hard to make this a vacation destination for snowmobilers."
The Yellowstone factor
While snowmobilers and
environmentalists continue to fight over access to Yellowstone National
Park this winter, riders in the Sawtooth Valley and Stanley Basin are
enjoying the virtues of the area’s relatively unsung snow and terrain.
Though snowmobiling is a staple in the region’s winter economy, there is
room to expand, said Dan Hammerback, president of the Salmon River
Snowmobile Club.
Hammerback estimated that
snowmobiling brings $370,000 in cash flow to Stanley each year. "Our
long-term goal is to push that up to about $1 million a season," he
said.
Snowmobiles are as common at
fuel pumps as cars during winter in the Sawtooth Valley. Express
photos by Greg Stahl
In the long run, the winter
tourist season in Stanley might be able to give summer a run for its
money, Hammerback said. One of the first steps will be encouraging many
business owners to remain open during the cold, white months of winter.
With snowmobiling in Yellowstone
up in the air this year, Stanley businesses may be able to tap into the
displaced market, which Hammerback said consists primarily of Midwest
tour-oriented riders. "That’s one of the reasons we’ve paid a lot of
attention to our trail system this year," he said. "There’s a
significant market to be tapped."
But a little sour comes with the
sweet prospects of a new, untapped market.
Hammerback said snowmobilers must
win in Yellowstone or face future pressures in other areas like the
Sawtooth Valley and the nearby Boulder and White Cloud mountains, where
wilderness designation is pending.
"That’s why we can’t let
Yellowstone set a precedent. We’ve tried give-and-take, but what it
seems to come down to is we’re willing to give, and they’re willing to
take. There is a struggle for public land—keeping it accessible for all.
Obviously the battle’s going to go on as environmentalists want to close
more and more lands."
The terrain
After she maneuvered her
snowmobile through a stand of trees and onto the flanks of a hill north
of Stanley, Dee Williams hit the accelerator and shot like a cannon up
the side of the hill. Williams, who co-owns Stanley-based Williams
Motorsports, has been riding for 30 years.
"Everybody who’s come here to ride
from somewhere else has just been in awe," she said. "There’s just a
vast amount of riding they can do from every level of experience."
The Sawtooth Valley and Stanely
Basin offer up 170 miles of groomed snowmobile trails and thousands
of acres of off-trail riding. Trails stem out from the town of Stanley
to the public lands beyond. This bridge crosses Valley Creek and leads
to riding north of Stanley. Express photos by Greg Stahl
From a vast and manicured network
of trails, which connects with trail systems as far away as Cascade and
McCall, to hair-raising rides in the White Cloud Mountains, the Sawtooth
Valley and Stanley Basin probably have something to offer every ability
of rider, Williams said.
"Our backcountry riding up in the
mountains and bowls is just unlimited," she said. "Another upshot of
this area is that you can ride in areas where you won’t see a soul all
day long. We haven’t been discovered yet. It’s not like Yellowstone."
The Sawtooth Valley truly has a
culture that is built, in part, on snowmobiling.
In Stanley and the
southern-Sawtooth Valley city of Smiley Creek, snowmobilers pull into
gas pumps alongside trucks and cars. Snowmobiles sit in the driveways of
many homes.
"As a riding town, I think it’s
coming back around to itself," Hammerback said. "In the 1970s, it was a
very big snowmobiling area, with five or six dealers. It’s just starting
to pick up again. A lot of it has to do with the growth of the sport
nationally and internationally."
Randy Townsend, who manages the
Smiley Creek Lodge with his wife, Rae, said snowmobile business is busy,
but not booming, in the southern Sawtooth Valley.
"It’s different than in summer,"
he said. "We’re undiscovered, uncrowded. There’s trail riding, mountain
riding, powder riding."
According to Hammerback, Stanley
ranks only behind McCall for the quality of the snowmobiling in Idaho.
For an initial visit, he
recommended getting a trail map published by the Sawtooth Community
Winter Recreation Partnership and talking with a local resident who
knows what the area has to offer. A good first-day ride would be a trip
to Stanley Lake or to Elk Creek west of Stanley.
For intermediate riders, a trip to
the rolling hills north of Stanley serves up small hills and meadows and
acres upon acres of riding.
Advanced riders should head to the
White Cloud Mountains, where steep, technical, tree-riddled riding
awaits.
"You get pretty wrung out by the
end of a day in the mountains," he said. "Riding can be a lot like
skiing. It can be as physical as you want to make it."
The appeal
Snowmobiles are noisy and stinky,
but there’s little that compares with the feeling of hanging on to a
high-powered machine skimming across the snow.
"It’s the adrenaline rush,"
Hammerback said. "As soon as you pull the trigger and go. There’s
nothing like 140 horsepower underneath you—all at the squeeze of a
thumb."
Hammerback, who grew up
snowmobiling in Wisconsin, said he skied exclusively until about six
years ago. Following a weekend outing on snowmobiles, he was hooked and
hung up his skis in exchange for a sled.
"Getting into a big untracked
meadow full of powder snow—it’s a lot like powder skiing," he said.
"It’s the same sensation of carving."
The scenery, backcountry, silence
and camaraderie of a group are also appealing aspects of riding, he
said.
And then there’s the big-mountain
adventure riding.
"I’ve seen more backcountry in the
last four years as my skill level progresses than I ever could have
dreamed of," he said. "It’s opened a lot of doors for me."