Feet on the ground, head in the clouds
National hero Jim Whittaker finds meaning in his lifes adventures
By TRAVIS PURSER
Express Staff Writer
On May 1, 1963, at 4 a.m., Jim Whittaker awoke inside a small tent perched
more than five miles above sea level on an icy mountainside. Gale-force winds whistled in
the tent poles and hammered the tents thin, nylon fabric.
After more than a year of planning, and months of physical hardship that
tested the limits of human durability, this was Whittakers chancea window of
opportunity that amounted to a mere handful of hours.
Whittaker pointed skyward and said to the Sherpa, Gombu, "We go
up."
That afternoon, after staggering for nine hours towards the highest place
on earth, Whittaker and Gombu stood together at the edge of space29,028 feet atop
Mt. Everest.
At that altitude, the sky was a deep, dark blue. Whittaker, at age 34, had
become the first American to summit Mt. Everest.
It was the moment around which the rest of his life would pivot.
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During a visit last week to Sun Valleya trip that was part book
tour, part ski vacationWhittaker talked about his life, and discussed what he hoped
to accomplish in writing about it.
Whittaker gave a slide show recounting his lifes adventures at
Ketchums Community Library on Wednesday evening. He then talked to the Idaho
Mountain Express on Thursday afternoon at the Warm Springs Lodge after a day of
skiing.
Since that historic day on Mt. Everest, Whittaker has shown the world that
"going up" on the mountain and in lifethat is, putting yourself at
riskcan mean both high achievement and deep failure. In the wake of national
recognition, he became part of the Kennedy "family," socializing with the
worlds most famous and powerful public figuresa heady experience for a young
man who grew up in a middle class family, climbing the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.
He ran Robert Kennedys presidential campaign in Washington state,
until, to the loss of Whittaker and the world, Kennedy was assassinated in 1968. He saw
one marriage disintegrate, then met his current wife of 27 years, Dianne Roberts in 1972.
Plagued by a myriad of logistical problems, he was defeated by the worlds second
highest mountain, K2, in 1975, only to lead the first successful American ascent in 1978.
As the first full-time employee of a small co-op called REI, he built the
fledgling company into the nations largest outdoor equipment retailer. Decades
later, he suffered near bankruptcy.
Today, at age 70, Whittaker, Roberts and their two sons are sailing a
54-foot ketch, the Impossible, around the world.
In the introduction to Whittakers new memoir, Jim Whittaker, A
Life on the Edge, friend and fellow climber Tom Hornbein writes, "Between the
bookends, life is a journey. For a few, the journey becomes an odyssey of adventure."
Certainly, Whittakers life has been an odyssey of adventure, but at the core of the
man and the book, there is more than just thrill seeking. The book turns on several
themes. It recounts a moving, inspirational and deeply human story.
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At six feet, five inches, Whittaker was described by Robert F. Kennedy,
Jr. as a "physical giant with a huge heart, a decent soul and inspirational
courage." At age 70, he still seems to have the power and determination to climb Mt.
Everest.
However, writing and publishing the book has been difficult, Whittaker
said. At least one editor called him a name-dropper, and a reviewer in Seattle accused him
of putting on "rarefied airs," apparently because Whittaker, who holds a
bachelors degree from Seattle University with a minor in philosophy, believes it is
important not only to discuss his lifes adventures, but also to convey their
meaning.
"I want the word to get out that life is good," he said,
"and that the planet is beautiful." For people to realize that, Whittaker
believes risk is necessary. Stick your neck out, he says, and your odds of winning are at
least 50/50. Dont, and youre not even in the game.
You can increase your odds, Whittaker says, by careful preparation, which
comes in part from constant learning. "Learning," he writes at the end of his
book, "is what happens when you risk a journey beyond what you know and are
comfortable with."
Whittaker first began discovering the value of risk at age 20, climbing
with his twin brother Louie on the 3,000-foot-high east face of Washington states
Mt. Index, a mountain described by many simply as "evil."
With Louie on belay (attached to Whittaker by rope to catch a fall),
Whittaker had started up the nearly vertical rock face. Then, the mistakes began to pile
up.
First, Whittaker didnt use as much climbing hardware as he should
havewith the result that if he came off the rock, he would have farther to fall
before reaching the end of the rope.
Mistake No. 2: Louie wasnt anchored into anythingif Whittaker
fell, he would pull his brother down with him. Then, near the top, with one foot dangling
in the air, Whittaker searched for and couldnt find a place to hold onto with his
left hand. That was mistake No.3: always have three solid points of contact between the
rock and your body.
With his right leg trembling from fatigue, and just moments away from
peeling off the rock, Whittaker made a desperate flying leap. His fingertips hooked a
ledge, and he pulled himself to safety.
Whittaker learned that day that a few small mistakes, added together, can
be deadly. Hes been building on that lesson throughout his life both on and off the
mountain. Mostly, hes learned to find value in failure.
"I think theres sort of a hierarchy of living, not unlike the
camps on a climb," he wrote. "If you never leave base camp, you never get
anywhere. Maybe you get to camp I and try for camp II, fail on the first attempt and give
up. Live a life that way, and you never, as they say, get off the
ground."
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Whittaker acknowledges that hes been very fortunate in life, and
part of writing the book, he says, is to show readers the mistakes hes made so
theyll know what not to do. Also, he says, the book is a way of "giving
something back."
Whittaker wrote the books final chapter aboard the
Impossible" near Brisbane, Australia, at the end of the first leg of his
familys round-the-world journey. With the boat rocking gently on its mooring and
brown pelicans hunting breakfast nearby, he recollected that in high school, when asked
what he hoped to achieve, he had answered "to be an asset to the world."
"I really had no idea what I meant by that," he wrote. It was
more of a yearning than a clear idea. Now, "as I near 70, Im still working on
it. In a way, this memoir is a sort of progress report."